Metroline Online

Photo by Don Church & Tony Schillaci

Trevi Fountain, Rome

Federico Fellini’s classic film about the sweet life - “La Dolce Vita” - is still very much dolce in Rome.  Today the cast is different, but no less glamorous, fun-loving, and decadent than the jet-set 60s.

On a recent visit, the leafy and cosmopolitan Via Veneto, a block from our hotel Sofitel - a former grand palazzo - has changed little since the day of the Fellini, Marcello Mastroianni, Anita Ekberg, and Anouk Aimee great film.  

We carefully planned our five-day visit – two before taking a cruise around Italy on the awesome Azamara Quest (gay-friendly: www.azamaracruises.com), and three days after seeing the best Italian ports.  So by buying one (discounted) round-trip airfare each ($450 from Expedia), we got two vacations.  

Before leaving home, we surfed online to find out what’s hot and what’s not to make every moment count.

To avoid slow airport or port of Rome mass transit, contact the totally reliable Domenico. He has spotless vehicles for the most punctual door to door service. www.romashuttleairport.it.   It’s the most direct way to get to and from your hotel.  Figure on $150 or so for up to three people.  Keep in mind that with the weak dollar, taxis are unbelievably expensive, so go in style.  

The best 4-star deal online in the central tourist area was at the Sofitel Villa Borghese, a former grand palazzo, at Via Lombardia 47. It’s on a hill adjacent to the famed Borghese Gardens and overlooking the Eternal city.  
The Sofitel is an extremely well-managed hotel and the accommodations evoke the elegance of a bygone era, yet, with the finest of modern comforts.

The rooms have internet service, but we used the free business center.  The handsome restaurant has a lavish breakfast buffet.  There is a breathtaking view from the seventh-floor terrace which has food and beverage service.

This gem is close to the famed Via Veneto, Spanish Step and other major attractions, monuments and shopping areas. www.sofitel.com.  We happily and safely walked to everything on our list, including many affordable restaurants with a passion for serving authentic, freshly made Roman and other regional foods, including crusty bread and robust wines we can’t find in the States. These friendly and picturesque sidewalk trattorias and osterias are where the local Romans dine. They’re found on the narrow, cobbled streets off the major avenues and piazzas.

Our favorites include the Opera Ristorante near the Vatican’s Castello St. Angelo of “Angels and Demons” fame.  Fortunato Vullo is the owner/host extraordinaire. Marzia Sporeno beautifully sings the great opera arias and familiar Italian folk songs during dinner accompanied by an accordionist.  

For a spectacular view of the Castello St. Angelo at night, dine and drink outside at the umbrella tables. Via Paola, Rome www.operaristorante.com.  

Another favorite is the Antica Hostaria al Vantaggio Restaurant on Via del Vantaggio 35 near the Piazza del Popolo (not far from the Spanish Steps). The charming and ultimate restaurateur, Luigi, offered us pasta with lamb sauce for a new taste treat. His pizzas, calzones and other pasta dishes are outstanding.  www.alvantaggio.it.

It’s said that the best upscale restaurant Rome is in the magnificent Hotel Lord Byron.  The hotel a former grand residence, near the Borghese Garden and the Piazza del Popolo, in the Beverly Hills of Rome. The rooms are individually decorated in grand style, the art and art objects are museum quality – the personal collection of owner/hotelier Amedeo Ottaviani.  The restaurant lived up to its exalted reputation.  

Barman and sommelier Nicola Grieco served us a tasting of its finest dishes and wines.  This is the place to go to for the best of everything in Rome. www.lordbyronhotel.com.      

The Hotel d’Inghilterra on Via Bocca di Leone 14 is close to the Spanish Steps and Via Condotti.  We explored this former guest house of a great palazzo with it dazzling accommodations, including a roof suite to die for. And had a memorable lunch in its sidewalk café.  The is another great choice for location, rooms, and fine food and wines. www.royaldemeure.com.

Directly next to the Spanish Steps we had superb tea and luscious cakes at the historic Belle Époque Babington’s Tea Room, Piazza di Spagna 23. It was founded in 1893 and began by catering to British tourists who were on the then Grand Tour of Europe.  www.babingtons.com.

We emphasize these outstanding gay-friendly restaurants and hotels of Rome because after exploring the pleasures of la dolce vita, you’ll need a long and relaxed lunch, dinner and a great night’s sleep.  

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